FAQ

The included .3mf file has all the required slicer settings pre-configured and works directly in Bambu Studio.

For all other slicers, please refer to the original product listing on the store for the detailed printing settings required for your model.

Yes and no. It all depends on your 3D printer and the slicer settings you use to print it. I would only recommend printing with the included .3mf file using Bambu Studio. Other slicers do not transfer settings correctly—refer to the instructions located on the item’s sales listing if using a different slicer.

Each design includes model-specific printing settings (on the product page) and a Bambu Studio .3mf with known-good settings. If you use another printer or slicer, if you have trouble printing, or if you want the best results, read this.

Baseline

• My models are designed for a 0.4 mm nozzle and 0.2 mm layer height. Use this setup for intended results.
• Models print without support unless otherwise noted.
• Materials and prep: use standard PLA (not silk, not matte). Keep filament dry. Make sure your printer is working and properly calibrated.

Non-collapsing designs

• Orientation: print with the finger holes and the soundhole (at the splitting edge) facing the build plate.
• Z-seam: keep the seam off the windway (the internal air channel you blow into). Do not place a seam on any windway surface. Set seam to Back and rotate the flute so the end faces the back of the plate.
• Bridging quality: the bridge over the windway is critical. The Arachne wall generator can improve bridging at the soundhole.
• Preview check: inspect the layer that bridges the windway. If the start/stop would leave threads inside the channel, rotate slightly or adjust seam until the bridge slices cleanly.
• After printing: if the flute does not play well, inspect the windway against a bright light. Remove any threads with a scalpel or thin sandpaper. You can lightly sand the windway and the splitting edge for best results if needed. Do not overdo it.

Collapsing (telescopic) designs

• Adhesion and accuracy: use a 2–3-layer raft to prevent detachment and keep first-layer dimensions accurate. These mechanisms rely on tight tolerances.
• Material sensitivity: different PLAs behave differently. Silk and matte PLAs can shift dimensions and surface quality. I print with dry, standard PLA and recommend the same.
• Freeing a tight or stuck mechanism: extend and close repeatedly to let it self-lap. If it is really stuck, give it a brief ~60 °C hot-water bath, then try to extend it, or pull the last segments gently with pliers if needed. Hot water can also help separate segments that fused together.
• If segments fused: seam settings likely welded parts. Set Seam Location = Random and reprint with dry PLA.

Sometimes a freshly printed flute might need a little cleanup to play perfectly. This is not always required, but if you have issues, these steps will likely solve them.

Problem: My flute makes no sound, or only a weak, airy sound.

• The Cause: The most common reason is a small imperfection blocking the windway. Even a tiny piece of stray plastic can disrupt the airflow and prevent a clear tone.
• How to Check: Hold the mouthpiece up and look directly through the narrow windway channel against a bright light source.
• The Fix: If you see any stringing, debris, or roughness inside, you will need to clear it out. Use a small needle file, a folded piece of fine-grit sandpaper, or the edge of a thin craft knife.

Problem: Telescopic flute is stuck after printing and won’t open.

• Use only dry PLA: Dry your filament before use and don’t use other materials besides PLA.
• Seams welded together: If your printer has trouble with seams, you might need to adjust your seam-related settings. One easy—but not ideal—solution would be to set the seam location to random.
• Different tolerances: Some designs come with looser tolerances and calibration parts. Try printing a looser version of the flute!

• Material Choice: I recommend using only high-quality PLA or PETG from reputable manufacturers, as they are generally considered stable and safe for casual contact. Food-safe certifications differ per manufacturer and color.
• Cleaning: It is highly recommended to wash the mouthpiece with soapy water after playing—especially if you share it with others. Bacteria can build up between the layer lines.

If you have any questions, encounter issues, or just want to share your results, feel free to contact me here.

I’d love to see what you create—feel free to tag me on social media!

Most modern slicers support .3mf files, but if yours doesn’t:

• Check if a .stl version is included in the download (or request one if not)
• Import the .stl into your slicer and manually apply the recommended settings found in the product listing

If you’re stuck, feel free to reach out—I’m happy to help!